A Winter First

Be warned, some of you may find what follows a little gross.  My friends do…

 

As I was out checking on the cabins this morning I noticed a lot of little hoof prints all over.  On the decks, right next to the cabin doors, up and down the drives, off into the woods, and over across the lake.  I kept following all the tracks around in their odd little patterns trying to figure out what the deer were doing here.  I feared for our little sapling Jack pines, Stan and Marge, but seemed to be ok nestled in the snow.

Usually Tuscarora does not have any deer visitors in the winter.  It’s tough living up here in the deep snow with out a lot of browse.  Most deer migrate down to Lake Superior and hang out on the shore or go further south where the snow does not get so deep.  Some heards tough it out all winter when a resort feeds them, but they usually don’t stray very far from the feeders.

I decided to grab the mail and walk with Lucy out to the mail box.  It was a nice enough day and she was going a little stir crazy after all the cold weather we had been having.  Plus I had a mystery to solve.  Heading down the road my head was down watching all the tracks.  We even picked up the tracks of a little moose on the road.  There were a lot!  Going every which way.  What went on last night?

Not paying attention as I was, I didn’t notice the little red car coming up the road towards us.  I hollered for Lucy and the car slowed down and rolled down their window.  With an excited grin I was informed their was carrion up ahead!  I thanked them for the heads up and clicked Lucy onto a leash.  I didn’t need a pup with an upset stomach at 2 AM.

I assumed they had meant it would be on the Cross River just up head but nothing.  Lucy and I kept following the tracks in the snow still wondering.  Lucy is not one for leashed walks and I was more concerned about being pulled over into the snow than the tracks for a while.  Then we turned the corner by the Centennial Hiking Trail and there it was.

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My enthusiasm for what follows might be a bit…odd…but this was my first wolf kill.  I had been waiting for this for a while now.  From a distance it was just a big splattering of red in a black and white world.  Now the tracks were all a mess of creatures – deer, wolf, fox, martin, raven, scrub jay, people.  We got closer, Lucy tugging on the leash, me trying to keep her out of the worst.  The deer must have been there for at least a day as not much was left.  Tufts of fur were scattered every where.  The carcass was just a skull, spine and some ribs.  I could see where umm…”bits”…had been carried off to be umm…”enjoyed”…in peace.

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And the wing marks!  The ravens had been startled off by the car passing through but on the snow banks were these beautiful feather impressions from their take offs.  There must have been a whole flock here cleaning up the…ah…”leftovers.”

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It was hard to really take a good look at everything with Lucy choking herself on the leash so we went home.  I was going to go back out and take a closer look but when we got back, the county snow plow was rumbling up the drive.  Shoot.  It will be all swept into the snow bank now.  I wanted to see how the rest of it was going to go as all the little forest scavengers had their turn.

My friends tell me this is gross.  And sad.  But a wolf needs to eat, right?  And when the wolf is done, just think of all the other creatures that benefit.  Sure the deer is dead but winter is really a struggle for them anyways.  It’s not cruel or sinister.  It’s just a part of the natural order.

Check out our Winter Report for shorter and fluffier winter condition updates!

Skiing in a New Year

Celebrating the end of a year and the ringing in of a fresh year Northwoods style is a bit different than most.  We don’t have the throngs of people all bunched together in a valley of buildings watching jumbo-trons and cheering as a giant crystal ball falls.  The dress code up here does not included freshly pressed tuxedos or the most fashionable ball gowns.  Even the paper party hats and noise makers are absent (although we could have had these if any one had remembered to pick up some at the store an hour away).

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Instead we donned our warmest layers without concern for style as the wind chill was pushing -20.   We headed outside into the cold pale winter sun, strapped on our skis, and headed off into the woods.  We broke trail across the portage from Round Lake into West Round Lake.  There are no crowds out here, not even a human track, at least not since the last snow fall.  Otter slides cris-crossed the snow.  Fox tracks hurried along their narrow little trails.  But no foot prints, tire tracks, snowshoe or ski trails did we cross.

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Pushing on between West Round and Edith Lake we started to pick up fire wood with a little help from Mackey.  We shushed our way across the lake looking for a little sunny spot tucked away from the wind.  Soon we had a merry little blaze crackling away on top the snow and ice.  Who needs noise makers or sparklers when you have a fire with sappy pine in it!  We kept warm hunting up downed wood to feed the hungry flames sputtering along in the winter wind.  Once we had enough warmth to melt the ice off of ski bindings we broke into the snacks.

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Our Northwoods version of champagne and caviar could all be toasted over open flame.  Marshmallows for s’mores and pudgie pie PB&Js.  Nothing tastes as fine as fire roasted sugar and slightly burnt sandwiches out in the woods.  The water out of our bottles was as sparkling as the finest champagne with the ice crystals forming at the rim.  Our jumbo-tron entertainment was feeding the flames and watching them crackle up with new flames.

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Soon it was time to hurry off to catch the most magnificent of finales.  We retraced our tracks back to Round Lake just in time to watch the sun set.  No Time Square ball has ever been as beautiful as a December 31st sunset over the boreal forest.  While the time might not be midnight (it was actually 4:19 pm) the day and the year were definitely done.

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While we waited for the man-made end of the year to arrive, we nestled into cozy cabins with family and friends.  The night black as pitch outside the windows was not noticed as we collaborated on homemade pizza masterpieces, sang along to the music, and laughed at old stories and new.

Where ever you may be this New Years, we hope you are celebrating in your own way.  2014 was a beautiful year and 2015 is a fresh adventure waiting to happen.  Happy New Years to all of our Tuscarora friends!

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Bon Hiver

This is the time of year I like to watch reruns of Northern Exposure, the tv show from the early 90’s.  Set in a fictional town in Alaska, it bears a lot of similarities to northern Minnesota.  The characters are my early winter friends who know what it is like to live in the northern clime, in a place with more trees than people.  They understand the darkness.

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They also understand the anticipation of winter.  One of my favorite parts is from the 5th season.  Chris, the radio DJ is waiting for the the first snow of winter with an air of excitement.  Every one is preparing for the upcoming winter which can be challenging, but if they didn’t like it at least a bit way down deep, well, then they just wouldn’t live there.  At the end of the episode, the first flakes begin to fall and the whole community comes out into the streets to wish each other a bon hiver; a French saying that means  good winter.

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I like that expression.  Good winter.  All of a sudden it is December and it has all the makings of a good winter.  I eagerly waited for the first snow, the first real snow that sticks around.  Sure, some flakes fall early in September, but nothing that sticks to the ground and stays a while.  October starts to tease you a little bit with snow in the morning frosting the ground but it melts quickly.  By the end of October the snow was starting to get a little more serious.  When we took the dock out the last weekend of October, I got to shovel it off first.  That’s a neat experience, shoveling snow off the dock and watching it float away.

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The middle of November was when Round Lake decided to toss up its white flag and surrender to the winter.  The bigger lakes in the area still have some open water, but Round Lake has been tucked in for the winter for close to three weeks now.  And the snow did come.  We don’t have all that much on the ground, but every tree is flocked beautifully for the season.   When it gets really cold like the last few days and the sky clears to a beautiful blue and that pale winter sun peeks out for just a little bit. ..bon hiver.

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Then a real live Maggie O’Connell came and landed on Round Lake!  That’s just not something you see every day.  I think I can say that we have enough ice on the lake now, at least enough to support a plane.  No, we don’t have enough snow yet for those who like to shush through the woods on groomed trails or scream around on snow machines.  But it looks and feels like winter with plenty of time to add to our snow blanket.  It’s time to say bon hiver to everyone.  I think it is going to be a very good winter.

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Land of True Happiness, Canadian Wilderness!

A blog from former staffer Amy –

On August 8, my friends Laura, Tessa, Steph, and I set off on a wonderful, witty, wandering wilderness women’s adventure. All of us had spent summers guiding and traveling through the Boundary Waters on the US-Canada border, but this was the first time any of us had ventured north of that border on a multi-night Quetico trip. We were so excited and so ready to go (especially guide dog Avery!).

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A tow from Tuscarora gave us a jumpstart on our 95-mile journey. Thanks Kyle!

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After checking in with Janice at the Cache Bay Ranger Station, we paddled north toward the Falls Chain.  It was so much fun to put “faces” with the names we’d heard so many times (Silver Falls, Saganagons, Kawnipi), to see the unique characters of the many waterfalls (Bald Rock, Koko, Four Falls, Little Falls, Canyon, Kennebas) around which we portaged. Turns out the sound of rushing water is very encouraging when you’re carrying a heavy pack and/or canoe!

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Although we saw several other people along the Falls Chain, by the time we turned south towards Agnes it was beginning to feel like it was just us and the Canadian wilderness. We loved the still mornings and evenings (good for sunset yoga on the rocks!), streams along the Agnes River, pictographs, islands, and cliffs during this part of our journey. And we did a lot of singing of voyageur songs and oldies!

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On our 4th day we stopped at Louisa Falls and were glad to be hiking up the steep, rocky, rooty trail without our canoes and gear. There the sun peaked out for the first time in a few days…it felt pretty glorious!

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Our campsite on Sunday Lake that night was one of our favorites. We’d fallen into a pattern of good rock time, cooking yummy meals and taking out the map to talk through our plans for the next day. And that night we watched the sky and lake for a long time.

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Over the next few days we looped south along the border and then northeast along the man chain. These lakes are very confusing to talk about… “Was that This Man or That Man? Is this This Man or That Man?” …but cliffy and island-y and calm.

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In addition to large “Welcome to Canada” signs, we experienced lilypads and knee-deep mud during this part of the journey. It was all very wonderful!

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The last few nights of our trip were cold and brought beautiful misty mornings. On our final morning in the Quetico we paddled through Ottertrack Lake in awe as the mist revealed perfectly still water and cliffs brightened by elegant sunburst lichen.

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It was hard to leave this beautiful place experienced with beautiful friends. But Quetico, we will be back!!

 

If you go…

They did the route in 7 days but be warned, these girls move!  Moving 15 to 20 miles a day is not unheard of for them.

  • Day 1: Hook Island to Saganagons
  • Day 2: Saganagons to Murdoch (comes right after Kawnipi)
  • Day 3: Murdock, Agnes River, Agnes (halfway)
  • Day 4: Agnes, Meadows, Sunday
  • Day 5: Sunday, Bayley Bay of Basswood Lake, Birch Lake, Carp Lake, Sheridan Lake, That Man, No Man, This Man
  • Day 6: This Man, Other Man, Bell, Fran, Saganagons, Lilypad, Jasper, Ottertrack (Canada side)
  • Day 7: Ottertrack, Swamp, Sag, Roy, Grandpa, Seagull

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