Skiing in a New Year

Celebrating the end of a year and the ringing in of a fresh year Northwoods style is a bit different than most.  We don’t have the throngs of people all bunched together in a valley of buildings watching jumbo-trons and cheering as a giant crystal ball falls.  The dress code up here does not included freshly pressed tuxedos or the most fashionable ball gowns.  Even the paper party hats and noise makers are absent (although we could have had these if any one had remembered to pick up some at the store an hour away).

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Instead we donned our warmest layers without concern for style as the wind chill was pushing -20.   We headed outside into the cold pale winter sun, strapped on our skis, and headed off into the woods.  We broke trail across the portage from Round Lake into West Round Lake.  There are no crowds out here, not even a human track, at least not since the last snow fall.  Otter slides cris-crossed the snow.  Fox tracks hurried along their narrow little trails.  But no foot prints, tire tracks, snowshoe or ski trails did we cross.

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Pushing on between West Round and Edith Lake we started to pick up fire wood with a little help from Mackey.  We shushed our way across the lake looking for a little sunny spot tucked away from the wind.  Soon we had a merry little blaze crackling away on top the snow and ice.  Who needs noise makers or sparklers when you have a fire with sappy pine in it!  We kept warm hunting up downed wood to feed the hungry flames sputtering along in the winter wind.  Once we had enough warmth to melt the ice off of ski bindings we broke into the snacks.

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Our Northwoods version of champagne and caviar could all be toasted over open flame.  Marshmallows for s’mores and pudgie pie PB&Js.  Nothing tastes as fine as fire roasted sugar and slightly burnt sandwiches out in the woods.  The water out of our bottles was as sparkling as the finest champagne with the ice crystals forming at the rim.  Our jumbo-tron entertainment was feeding the flames and watching them crackle up with new flames.

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Soon it was time to hurry off to catch the most magnificent of finales.  We retraced our tracks back to Round Lake just in time to watch the sun set.  No Time Square ball has ever been as beautiful as a December 31st sunset over the boreal forest.  While the time might not be midnight (it was actually 4:19 pm) the day and the year were definitely done.

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While we waited for the man-made end of the year to arrive, we nestled into cozy cabins with family and friends.  The night black as pitch outside the windows was not noticed as we collaborated on homemade pizza masterpieces, sang along to the music, and laughed at old stories and new.

Where ever you may be this New Years, we hope you are celebrating in your own way.  2014 was a beautiful year and 2015 is a fresh adventure waiting to happen.  Happy New Years to all of our Tuscarora friends!

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Bon Hiver

This is the time of year I like to watch reruns of Northern Exposure, the tv show from the early 90’s.  Set in a fictional town in Alaska, it bears a lot of similarities to northern Minnesota.  The characters are my early winter friends who know what it is like to live in the northern clime, in a place with more trees than people.  They understand the darkness.

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They also understand the anticipation of winter.  One of my favorite parts is from the 5th season.  Chris, the radio DJ is waiting for the the first snow of winter with an air of excitement.  Every one is preparing for the upcoming winter which can be challenging, but if they didn’t like it at least a bit way down deep, well, then they just wouldn’t live there.  At the end of the episode, the first flakes begin to fall and the whole community comes out into the streets to wish each other a bon hiver; a French saying that means  good winter.

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I like that expression.  Good winter.  All of a sudden it is December and it has all the makings of a good winter.  I eagerly waited for the first snow, the first real snow that sticks around.  Sure, some flakes fall early in September, but nothing that sticks to the ground and stays a while.  October starts to tease you a little bit with snow in the morning frosting the ground but it melts quickly.  By the end of October the snow was starting to get a little more serious.  When we took the dock out the last weekend of October, I got to shovel it off first.  That’s a neat experience, shoveling snow off the dock and watching it float away.

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The middle of November was when Round Lake decided to toss up its white flag and surrender to the winter.  The bigger lakes in the area still have some open water, but Round Lake has been tucked in for the winter for close to three weeks now.  And the snow did come.  We don’t have all that much on the ground, but every tree is flocked beautifully for the season.   When it gets really cold like the last few days and the sky clears to a beautiful blue and that pale winter sun peeks out for just a little bit. ..bon hiver.

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Then a real live Maggie O’Connell came and landed on Round Lake!  That’s just not something you see every day.  I think I can say that we have enough ice on the lake now, at least enough to support a plane.  No, we don’t have enough snow yet for those who like to shush through the woods on groomed trails or scream around on snow machines.  But it looks and feels like winter with plenty of time to add to our snow blanket.  It’s time to say bon hiver to everyone.  I think it is going to be a very good winter.

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Land of True Happiness, Canadian Wilderness!

A blog from former staffer Amy –

On August 8, my friends Laura, Tessa, Steph, and I set off on a wonderful, witty, wandering wilderness women’s adventure. All of us had spent summers guiding and traveling through the Boundary Waters on the US-Canada border, but this was the first time any of us had ventured north of that border on a multi-night Quetico trip. We were so excited and so ready to go (especially guide dog Avery!).

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A tow from Tuscarora gave us a jumpstart on our 95-mile journey. Thanks Kyle!

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After checking in with Janice at the Cache Bay Ranger Station, we paddled north toward the Falls Chain.  It was so much fun to put “faces” with the names we’d heard so many times (Silver Falls, Saganagons, Kawnipi), to see the unique characters of the many waterfalls (Bald Rock, Koko, Four Falls, Little Falls, Canyon, Kennebas) around which we portaged. Turns out the sound of rushing water is very encouraging when you’re carrying a heavy pack and/or canoe!

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Although we saw several other people along the Falls Chain, by the time we turned south towards Agnes it was beginning to feel like it was just us and the Canadian wilderness. We loved the still mornings and evenings (good for sunset yoga on the rocks!), streams along the Agnes River, pictographs, islands, and cliffs during this part of our journey. And we did a lot of singing of voyageur songs and oldies!

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On our 4th day we stopped at Louisa Falls and were glad to be hiking up the steep, rocky, rooty trail without our canoes and gear. There the sun peaked out for the first time in a few days…it felt pretty glorious!

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Our campsite on Sunday Lake that night was one of our favorites. We’d fallen into a pattern of good rock time, cooking yummy meals and taking out the map to talk through our plans for the next day. And that night we watched the sky and lake for a long time.

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Over the next few days we looped south along the border and then northeast along the man chain. These lakes are very confusing to talk about… “Was that This Man or That Man? Is this This Man or That Man?” …but cliffy and island-y and calm.

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In addition to large “Welcome to Canada” signs, we experienced lilypads and knee-deep mud during this part of the journey. It was all very wonderful!

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The last few nights of our trip were cold and brought beautiful misty mornings. On our final morning in the Quetico we paddled through Ottertrack Lake in awe as the mist revealed perfectly still water and cliffs brightened by elegant sunburst lichen.

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It was hard to leave this beautiful place experienced with beautiful friends. But Quetico, we will be back!!

 

If you go…

They did the route in 7 days but be warned, these girls move!  Moving 15 to 20 miles a day is not unheard of for them.

  • Day 1: Hook Island to Saganagons
  • Day 2: Saganagons to Murdoch (comes right after Kawnipi)
  • Day 3: Murdock, Agnes River, Agnes (halfway)
  • Day 4: Agnes, Meadows, Sunday
  • Day 5: Sunday, Bayley Bay of Basswood Lake, Birch Lake, Carp Lake, Sheridan Lake, That Man, No Man, This Man
  • Day 6: This Man, Other Man, Bell, Fran, Saganagons, Lilypad, Jasper, Ottertrack (Canada side)
  • Day 7: Ottertrack, Swamp, Sag, Roy, Grandpa, Seagull

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2014 Crew

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The other morning I sat on my deck and watched the mist rising to meet the clear day, and my heart started pulling hard…to hold that mist down, to stall the start of the day, the end of the summer, this point in life.  It was so so beautiful, and I know it’s futile to try to hold onto something so beautiful and fleeting, but sometimes I can’t help myself.

Summer is closing.  Even though it seemed so endless and fresh 20 minutes ago (12 weeks actually) when the staff were arriving….old staff and new staff—to form the crew.  Now…as they start to trickle away, I want to hold them here. Each one of them. Let me introduce them to you.

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Already we miss that bubbly cheerful Amy with her contagious happiness.  I could always hear Amy coming and going in the outfitting building- her chatter and laughter were not so subtle.  Also, I often scheduled her on late shift for those crazy busy nights, because this girl can multi-task ….from the fishing machine to the permit snafus to the phones, to the computer, to the store—simultaneously with the same bright confidence.   She’s something.

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Liz was hired in May–as our fill-in-for-any-position person. Lucky us, because she can do it all. She joined Amy in finding humor in everyday things.  You cannot help but laugh a little at the things Liz finds funny.   But honestly, you should have HEARD her play the violin with Jerry Vandiver. You cannot help but get choked up a little by the sound she gets out of that instrument, either.  That’s pretty special when a person can make you laugh and cry in the same day.

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Allie has been here for 3 summers, and I’m starting to feel like we cannot live without her.  She was a flawless food packer this year–but more than that, she quietly takes on the pulse of the staff– and she makes sure that everyone is welcome in her adventures.   My favorite moment with Allie this year is when we went blueberry picking in her jeep.  Well, I was going blueberry picking, she was actually off-roading.   We’re still hoping she can come back for one more summer before she heads into the real world of architecture.

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Allie brought her sister Anna, who we hired without even blinking.   I should have known better than to expect an Allie-clone.  I mean, they both are really high quality workers, and great people. But-while Allie sits at the dinner table and I have to strain to catch her very quiet funny comments–Anna sings show-tunes.   And when the two of them planned the staff adventure list for the year–complete with a system of points and grids and “must dos”…Allie planned a cooperative effort for all to achieve, and Anna planned a competition.  Because Anna wins, or she’ll die trying.  Or in the case of the triathlon, she might just drown trying.   Style and form don’t necessarily count.  Winning counts.  Anna wins.

10506796_10100944540625450_8924798583526189496_oKyle was in the fishing boat for part of every evening all summer.  Somebody asked him at one of our loud…everybody-talking-at-once..dinners–“What do you DO, what do you THINK ABOUT out there?   And Kyle–who always has a really good answer, but won’t give it to you unless you ask him— concisely replied  “The quiet is really nice sometimes.”    This guy has such common sense life intelligence, and he’s so quietly kind to everyone…I just can’t get over how lucky we are to have him.

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Claire usually operates behind the scenes.  The most common thing I heard her say this summer was “Sure, I can do that.”   I really appreciate the way that Claire unloads the details out of my head and into hers.  It makes my load lighter, and we never run out of coffee.  One thing Shelby says is that people who bake are put together.  I tell you what, Claire can bake.

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See sweet Lucy in the bottom of the boat, navigating?  She is our camp scout, and she takes her Tuscarora perimeter patrol job very seriously.   She also has a hold on Rachel’s heart.The thing about Rachel–who is our year-round manager, is that she always does things well.   Everything….from creating spiffy google website route pages, to repairing canoes, to cleaning corners, to training staff.  All details.  How lucky is that for us to have her at Tuscarora?

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Kelly is our crew cook.  First of all, let me tell you that having a good crew cook is an amazing thing.  I just show up, with everybody else, and we line up for something really good, and hang out together.  Meals are a great part of the day.  I’ll bet we all have our favorites, but …whoa…her macaroni and queso, or her margarita pizza, and all  the salads…to die for.  We’ve had great food this summer, thanks to cute Kelly.IMG_0105Grant’s quirkiness amuses us all.  “Geez,” he said the other night.  “I don’t think I was ever funny until this summer”.   After hours, you can usually find his head and snorkel somewhere in the bay—not to be mistaken for a headless loon.   Sometimes he even fishes that way—with a little rod and hook he dangles right in front of his mask.  Grant notices the little details that can save us from catastrophes later.  He’s a good one to have around.

Shelby's Summer
   For the first 11 weeks of this summer Shelby pursued an adventure-internship in Colorado. Isn’t that the bittersweet part of being a parent? We WANT her to have her own dreams, her own places-her own adventures of a lifetime—even though that means we lose her. We’re genuinely happy when she’s happy. Still, my favorite part is that we get her back for August, and now she’s a certified sawyer too.

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IMG_0238Daniel is the outfitting manager.  It suits him.   As a mom, I worry that he’s taking on too much responsibility and becoming too old too fast, and developing a little twitch next to his right eye. As an employer, I have to admit that he sure is great at his job. Sometimes before he goes to bed he still comes around and says “hug” just like he did when he was three. He’s a competent man and a sweet boy all at the same time.

10580732_10100944541668360_784710469626752323_o Macky is just a handsome little feller.

10325539_10100944538704300_3534703019220621754_nJoe is absolutely perfect for hospitality because he offers the same friendly helpfulness at the end of a long day that he did that first day of the summer.  He’s is an optimist…in the flesh….even after he just fails the gallon-challenge.  He’s just game for everything—and I hear he doesn’t miss anything going on…ever. You can’t help but like Joe.

 

2014 Staff b 007There they are–our 2014 crew. Can you see why I love them?  It has been an honor for me to be part of this group of young people, and watch how they became a family who takes care of each other—and who are honestly committed to doing the hard work to take good care of every one who visits Tuscarora.  So, while I’m directing my heart to let go, I’m also really grateful for this slice of time and for the 2014 Tuscarora Crew.