Category: Life at Tuscarora Lodge

Searching for Mavis

Lately, Andy and I have been searching for Mavis.

No, not that Mavis; Mavis Lake, located a half mile south of Round Lake and just east of Missing Link Lake. It’s a little puddle of a Boundary Waters lake that the DNR keeps stocked with brook trout. You can access Mavis from the easternmost point of Missing Link Lake via a 40 rod portage.

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But what if there was a way to get into Mavis directly from Round, allowing you to bypass Missing Link altogether?

According to local old timers, back in the Leeds’ family time at Tuscarora, there used to be a portage from Round to Mavis that took off not far from the Round to Missing Link portage and cut southeast along a flowage. In fact, this portage was the preferable route into Mavis since the Missing Link to Mavis portage features a pretty steep uphill climb.

The trail’s not just a figment of locals’ imaginations. If you go onto the DNR’s LakeFinder website and look at Mavis’s fish survey, the DNR indicates that as of Autumn 2003, there was indeed a portage trail from Round Lake to Mavis.

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Curiouser and curiouser.

There’s just one little problem. While 2003 isn’t exactly ancient history, it doesn’t take very long for BWCAW forest to reestablish itself and reclaim a portage path. Anyone who’s tried to bushwhack through Minnesota woods known it’s a very slow process mostly spent untangling yourself from balsam and aspen saplings. If the trail really hadn’t been used for over a decade, we also knew some of those saplings were going to be decent sized trees by now and portage’s path wasn’t going to be too obvious.

But even if the chances of success were low, we couldn’t not look for this neglected path. “Because it’s there,” as George Mallory would say.

We set out a couple weeks back, choosing to cut up the Round Lake shoreline just below the cliffs near the Missing Link portage. We waded through snow, clambered up cliffs (and occasionally slide down cliffs), had amble amounts of snow fall down our necks and while I was sure we just had to make it over the hillside to reach (or at least see) Mavis, Andy’s GPS told a different story. After a half hour crashing through brush, we’d only made it about 2/10ths of a mile away from Round Lake. We ceded defeat and turned around. At least we enjoyed some great views on a beautiful bluebird day.

January Round Lake Gunflint Trail Boundary Waters winter trip

Looking towards the Brant Lake entry point across Round Lake

But we weren’t going give up just yet. Thanks to some information that came in from a Leeds’ family member, we were able to pinpoint the starting point for the elusive Round to Mavis portage. Last Sunday afternoon, we set out again, slightly more hopeful that we’d clamp eyes on Mavis this go-round.

We found the starting point easily enough along the shoreline and we wound our way through the young forest, trying to determine if we were going through growth that wasn’t older than 12 years.

Boundary Waters winter adventure Gunflint Trail

Where’s Waldo?

But it didn’t take long before we ran into this particular winter’s obstacle of brush bent over by the weight of a very heavy snowfall back in mid-December. The bent over brush really changes the look of the forest and it was hard to tell how to navigated around the low areas most affected by the “bend over.”

IMG_7483Undeterred, we pressed on. . . through waist deep snow that pushed up our pant legs and through low hanging balsam branches that tried to steal our hats. It was pretty clear we weren’t on the right path, but by the time we acknowledged that, we were closer to Mavis than to Round and it made more sense to just keep moving forward, albeit at a snail’s pace through the thick forest.

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Then, at long last, in the words of William Clark of Lewis and Clark fame: “Ocian in view! Oh! the joy!”

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Beautiful Mavis lake.

IMG_7499 IMG_7500We weren’t about to turn around and head back the way we’d just came, so we found the portage to Missing Link and looped back to Round Lake.

Oh the joy: flagging! Mavis to Missing Link portage.

Oh the joy: flagging! Mavis to Missing Link portage.

By the time we were back at our starting point, it was about two hours later and we’d gone a whole . . . wait for it . . . mile.

Moral of the story: It’s totally possible to make it to Mavis Lake from Round Lake. But for this winter at least, the Missing Link to Mavis portage is the best bet. We’ll leave rediscovery of the Round Lake to Mavis portage for a time when there isn’t 30 inches of snow and miles of downed brush in the woods. For the time being, Mavis remains both lost and found. Until next time . . .

Meeting the Neighbors


We’re lucky enough to know our Gunflint Trail neighbors pretty well and we look forward to catching up with them at fire department trainings, carpooling into Grand Marais for English literature classes, or meeting up for some ice fishing on Seagull Lake. But wintering in a new location on the Gunflint Trail means we have a whole new batch of feathered or four-legged neighbors to meet.

IMG_6952Chickadees (along with Hairy and Downy woodpeckers, nuthatches, and blue jays) make for very faithful winter companions and keep the bird feeders full of happy flutterings. We love putting out bird seed by our winterized cabins so guests can enjoy the birds right outside their windows too.

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And the ubiquitous red squirrel? Yep, they’ve found the feeders too. (Surprise, surprise.)

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The fox’s been roaming around Tuscarora since early winter and while we’ve grown quite fond of him/her, we’ve resisted the urge to name it. Apparently, a steady supply of sunflower seeds and the occasional minnow, is enough to keep him/her hanging around for the foreseeably future. Fox’s favorite hobbies include sitting in the road/yard and staring at humans, hiding behind trees and staring at humans, and sneaking up behind you while you’re filling bird feeders or walking to the mailbox.

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Caught in the act.

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We crossed paths with another canine neighbor a couple weeks back. We first ran into the wolf running down the Gunflint Trail. As we headed up Round Lake Road, we found the same wolf running across the frozen Cross River.

IMG_7375Sometimes, we don’t see the animal – just the evidence that they were recently there. Here, it appears that an owl found a tasty snack (probably a very small four-legged something) hiding under the snow near Brant Lake.

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We been seeing lots of otter slide marks along the Round Lake Road and the Centennial Trail, but sadly we have yet to put eyes on the actual animal. Otters have the most fun.

Gunflint Trail moose

Maybe not ideal moose viewing, but a good, safe distance to spot a moose at when you’re driving the Gunflint Trail

We’ve been seeing plenty of moose on our trips into Grand Marais too, usually in the Swamper Lake and Iron Lake areas on the Trail.

What “neighbors” have you been hanging out with this winter? 

To Be The Snow Man

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The Snow Man 
One must have a mind of winter
To regard the frost and the boughs
Of the pine-trees crusted with snow;
And have been cold a long time
To behold the junipers shagged with ice,
The spruces rough in the distant glitter
Of the January sun; and not to think
Of any misery in the sound of the wind,
In the sound of a few leaves,
Which is the sound of the land
Full of the same wind
That is blowing in the same bare place
For the listener, who listens in the snow,
And, nothing himself, beholds
Nothing that is not there and the nothing that is.
Wallace Stevens
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Worth the “Skate” – Winter Finds the Gunflint Trail

We all know the tired cliches – “Patience is a virtue,” or, “The good things in life are worth waiting for.” Even though we know in our heart of hearts that patience is the best policy, sometimes we give up on it before we should.

Last week, I glumly wrote off ice skating for this early winter of 2015-16. Round Lake certainly wasn’t freezing up in a way that was going to be conducive to ice skating and as we watched day after day of unseasonably mild weather go by, we started to have our doubts that the big lakes along the Gunflint Trail were ever going to freeze.

But then?

A Christmas miracle!

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Yesterday we received a call from our old stomping grounds up on Seagull Lake to let us know that Seagull had frozen over the night before and that the north bay was filled smooth “skating rink” ice thick enough to traverse. We threw skates, sticks, and pucks in the truck and in about 45 minutes, I was perched on a shoreline rock, lacing up my skates.

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Smoke the Black Lab turned into a puck retrieving machine.
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Is there anything better than the sound of skates cutting through the smooth ice?

IMG_7143Attempting to brush up my figure skating chops . . . .IMG_7145Ice’s been a bit of a fascination lately. Right now, Round Lake is steadily building ice and although the ice is rubbish for ice skating, it’s perfect for exploring and some early season ice fishing. You can check out our video of Andy testing the ice depth on the Tuscarora Facebook page.IMG_7110 IMG_7115

 

Please don’t venture out on the Gunflint Trail lakes without first checking with locals for the latest conditions. The lakes remain unsafe in many spots and the ice on the open sections of large lakes like Seagull Lake is still very new and needs a few more days to thicken up before we ask it to support our weight. In addition to the late ice-up, the Gunflint Trail received 12+ inches of snowfall last week (cross country skiers and snowshoers rejoice!), which creates slushy pockets on the lake that had already frozen.

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But we’ll tolerate a little slush if it means living in a real world snow globe. We’re so looking forward to another White Gunflint Trail Christmas. Welcome winter!

 

Skating Lessons

The Gunflint Trail hasn’t escaped the effects of El Nino this fall. There was snow and then there wasn’t. There was more snow and then that gently melted away too. Now we’re back to snow cover and it appears it’s here to stay. In fact, 14 + inches of snowfall is forecasted to fall between now and Christmas Day.

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But if I’m being honest, I don’t pay too much attention to the snow accumulation this time of year. Instead, I’m focused on the lake, trying to tell if this is the year it will freeze into a smooth, thick, mirror-like surface and if at long last, I’ll finally be able to test out the new blades I installed on my hockey skates back in spring 2014. I spend a lot of time staring out the window, trying to use mental telepathy to will it to freeze over perfectly.

As a child, much of my winters were spent on outdoor skating rinks, more often than not at hockey practice. I spent a fair amount of time at indoor arenas when we traveled for hockey tournaments. But it’s the rare, precious moment that’s been spent skating on frozen lakes.

It takes a lot for lake ice to freeze up just right for skating. We need a series of still, below freezing days and nights and under no circumstances can it snow significantly while the ice   forms.

It’s a tall order: no wind, no precipitation, and consistent freezing temps.

It happened once while we lived on Seagull Lake, back in December 2011. For a magical week, we swirled across the lake’s glossy surface, chasing hockey pucks, and putting real mileage on our skates as we skated the full mile from our dock to the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness sign.

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Once when I was very little, probably back in January 1992, the harbor in Grand Marais froze over, just for one glorious weekend. I remember spending that Sunday skating from the Lake Superior Trading Post all the way across to the Angry Trout Cafe and back again. By the time I took the bus into school the next morning, the wind had broken up the ice and pushed it on top of itself on the harbor beach.

That’s how skating on lakes goes in these parts. You must seize the moment as soon as it presents itself because it just takes one slight shift in the wind, one snow squall to put the kibosh on the whole thing.

But because Round Lake doesn’t have a ton of surface area, it’s one of the first lakes to freeze over on the Gunflint Trail and it tends to have more skate-able days than the other larger lakes. I thought maybe we had a shot. But not this year.

This year we got a week of whitecaps on Round Lake before Round Lake finally froze over on the Thanksgiving night. Then we got some snow. Then the temperatures hovered above freezing day and in day out for a week straight. Even though it’s been frozen over for more than two weeks, no one except a brave otter and fox have ventured across the ice. It just seems too uncertain.

Skating lessons or waiting lessons?

Maybe next year.